Personal lookbook

Everything, on you

Every top, every pant and every layer worth owning, rendered on your own build and coloring so you can see the combination before you buy it. Tap to swap.

69 looksWarm paletteWhite GATs throughout

Tops

Six silhouettes across seven colors, ordered best to weakest for your coloring. Dark indigo denim and the white GATs stay constant so the only variable is the shirt. An asterisk marks the three Quince stocks right now.

Rendering

Silhouette

Color

Pants

The same ivory tee on six bottoms. This is the section that decides whether an outfit reads as one flat column or as two halves.

Rendering

Bottom

Layers

The highest-leverage category for a lean frame. An open layer adds shoulder width and puts a second color at the collar.

Rendering

Layer

Jackets

Zip-through layers for 50 to 65 degrees — open or close as the day moves. Pick a jacket, then a color.

Rendering

Jacket

Color

View at Quince →

The colour map

Not a generic wheel — every dot is a garment measured off a real product page, plotted against your own skin.

Hue — where the colour sits on the circle

YOUhue 21–24°

Reading it

Your skin sits at hue 21–24° — the orange-gold slice at the top right. Colours near that arc harmonise with you. Colours opposite it fight you.

  • 0–60° — home. Reds, rusts, browns, khakis, olives. Everything that works for you lives here. Brick 0°, terracotta 19°, espresso 21°, flax 23°, khaki 37°, olive 41°.
  • 60–180° — conditional. Greens and teals work if muted and warm-leaning. Mineral green 91°, soft teal 169°. Saturated emerald or mint does not.
  • 180–300° — avoid near the face. Blues, indigos, violets. Atlantic blue 210° and coastal blue 211° are almost exactly opposite your skin on the wheel. That is the whole objection.
  • Achromatic — judged on brightness only. White, grey and black have no hue, so the wheel says nothing about them. See below.

Brightness — the second axis, and the one that catches people out

Your face measures 67–76%. Anything landing inside that band gives you no edge at the collar, whatever its hue. This is the entire reason Dusty Khaki underperforms despite being the right temperature.

Your face — 67–76%
Optic White100%
Porcelain90%
Flax89%
Coastal Blue87%
Dusty Khaki75%
Terracotta66%
Brick Red55%
Mineral Green53%
Atlantic Blue53%
Bayberry Olive49%
Soft Teal48%
Espresso29%

So who should wear cool colours?

Cool palettes are not worse. They belong to people whose skin measures the opposite of yours — blue or pink under the surface rather than gold, so red and blue come out near even instead of 80 points apart.

The test is the same one run on you, not a matter of taste: photograph the face in daylight, sample unshadowed skin, subtract blue from red. Above roughly +60 is warm. Near zero or negative is cool. You came back between +72 and +108.

What you own, and what to wear it with

Five pieces arriving, plus the black tees and dark denim already in the closet. These are the combinations that work, rendered.

Five rules that predict every pairing below

  1. One half light, one half dark. Never both. A dark top over dark denim is one flat column; that is what every old photo of you shows.
  2. Warm goes nearest your face. Your skin measured warm at hue 21–24°. Whatever touches your collar should be warm too. Cool colours are fine below the waist and on your feet, where they never meet your face.
  3. Leave fifteen points of brightness. Your face sits at 67–76%. Any top within fifteen points of that gives you no edge at the collar — go clearly darker or clearly lighter.
  4. Let the layer carry the colour. An open shirt or fleece puts a second colour at your neck and adds width at the shoulder, which a lean frame wants. The tee underneath can then be plain.
  5. Never two of the same family. Two greens fight. Two whites of different temperature fight. Contrast or commit.
Flax linen shirtLayer
Mineral Green fleeceLayer
Brick Red teeStrongest
Bayberry Olive teeBest neutral
Porcelain teeNeutral light
Rendering

Occasion

Three to avoid

Denim, chinos, socks

QuestionAnswerWhy
Jean washBuy mid-washYou own dark indigo only, so every look has a dark bottom and your dark tops have nothing to play against. Medium blue, soft fading, no whiskering. Skip pale stonewash and black denim.
Grey chinosWeakest bottomThey work, but grey is cool against your warm tops, and grey chino plus zip layer is half the uniform you are leaving. Buy olive chinos instead — same versatility, warm instead of cool.
SocksMatch the trouserCharcoal or navy with jeans, olive or taupe with chinos, so the leg reads as one line into the shoe. Black socks with the white GATs is the one actively bad combination: a hard dark band between dark denim and a white shoe.

Care

Every piece, how to wash it and how to dry it — and which mistakes actually cost you something.

Two rules that cover almost everything

  1. Only the linen goes in the dryer. Everything else lives on a hanger. Linen is the one fabric that softens through machine agitation; the rest only lose by it.
  2. Heat destroys the measurements you paid attention to. A hot cycle takes an inch off a tee hem and shrinks a leg opening. The 28.5-inch hem is the whole argument of this page, and a dryer undoes it in three washes.

Clothing

PieceWashDryNever
Linen shirt
Flax
Warm, around 40°C, with lights. Half a cup of white vinegar in the rinse for the first few washes — it strips the pectin that makes new linen stiff. Tumble LOW Fabric softener (coats the fibre and kills the breathability). Hot water. Air-drying alone, which leaves it board-stiff.
Pima tees
Brick, Olive, Porcelain
Cold or warm, inside out, like colours. Wash Brick Red alone for the first two or three cycles — saturated reds bleed. Hang dry Hot dryer. It shrinks body length, waves the collar and dulls the colour. This is the single most expensive mistake on the page.
Sweater-knit fleece
Mineral Green
Cold or warm, inside out to cut pilling, like colours, no softener. Low or air High heat — it glazes the fleece face permanently and there is no undoing it. Never iron polyester.
Denim
Dark indigo, white, mid-wash
Rarely — every five to ten wears. Cold, inside out, zipped. White jeans on their own, and treat stains the same day. Hang dry Hot wash or tumble. Both shrink the leg opening and fade the wash you chose deliberately.
Olive chino
when you buy it
Cold, inside out. Hang dry Tumbling — cotton twill shrinks in length first, which is where a chino shows it.

Shoes, belt, jewellery

PieceCareNever
White GATs
leather + suede + gum sole
Laces out and washed separately. Damp cloth and mild soap on the smooth leather. Suede brush and a suede eraser on the toe and heel panels — dry only, never wet. Magic eraser on the gum sole. The washing machine. It dissolves the sole adhesive and yellows the gum. Never dry near a radiator.
Black Stan Smiths Damp cloth, mild soap, air dry. Machine washing, same reasons.
Suede runners Suede brush after wear. Protector spray before the first outing and twice a year after. Water, soap, or any liquid cleaner.
Full grain belt Wipe with a damp cloth. Leather conditioner twice a year. Full grain is meant to darken and patina — that is the reason to buy it. Soaking, and any heat drying. Both crack the fibre permanently.
Gold pendant on cord Dry cloth after wear. Take it off before showering, swimming and the gym. Jewellery dip cleaners — they strip plating outright. Sweat and chlorine are what wear gold plating through, and friction does the rest.

How to group a load

The five rules underneath all of it